Traction control is a difficult topic.
Being a 4WD instructor with access to an obstacle course I've seen very different results in a controlled environment.
Firstly, there are 2 different types of traction control:
a) engine traction control - the one that prevents rear wheels spinning on wet road if you put the foot down too much at the lights - that needs to be off when 4WDing
b) traction control, that prevents individual wheels from spinning - depending on make/model/age - they range from useless to awesome.
Depending on your 4WD, traction controll might only work on rear wheels or all 4 wheels. If you have factory rear lockers & rear wheel traction control - you can only have one on at the same time. Best results seems to be 4 wheel traction control with optional rear locker, where when you turn on rear locker the traction control still works for front wheels.
From my expirence on the obstacle course I have to say it's about finding out how the systems works and a bit of try and error until you find the best combination of traction aids for the different situations.
I had once a new Ford Ranger - 6 speed auto with traction control and rear locker and on of the obstacles which in an old school 4WD you would drive 2nd low + rear locker, the only way for the Ranger was "D", high range + traction control - but it did it really well. Was a big surprise and the last combination we tried.
A bit of warning to people fitting after market lockers in newish 4WDs that come factory with ABS and/or traction control - make sure you fully understand how your factory systems work to not break stuff. For example a 70 series Landcruiser GXL comes with factory lockers, when you turn locker on, it automatically turns ABS off - if you put aftermarket lockers in the workmate version (no factory lockers), it will not automatically turn ABS off (you need to do some extra wiring that is not part of the normal locker installation)
hope that helps a bit
Cheers
Andre
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