We only syayed there for 4 days so no expert!! Wilpena pound is the main camp, we stayed at Rawnsly though and camped down the back away from the crowds and thought it was better than if staying at Wilpena. Not a lot of 4wding as such unless you do private property, we didn't bother because we had just been to Bendelby Station which was nothing short of awsome and were then heading to Arkaroola and the Gammon Rangers so got a mojor 4wd fix there. Also well worth the visit, Grindells Hut is a great camp.
We found hiking around Flinders to be the best way to take in the sights, drive to a location, pull on the boots and enjoy, make sure your reasionably fit though, some days we were doing 20+km.
September flowers are brilliant and the natural bush and land scape will leave most breathless, its a buitifull and amasing place.
There are a few on 4x4 Earth that have heaps of experiance around the Flinders so my advice is get on there and do some searching or ask on your own thread.
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