Looking for some advice with regard to snow chains. Am  doing a trip in a couple of weeks, I have the chains and know how to fit them, my question is  what tyre pressure do you use when you have snow chains on?

thanks

Roger

Hi Roger. The tyres with the chains on need to firm so the chains maintain a tight firm fit. I have only used them a few times preceding to keep away. This is because they chew up the tracks pretty bad. My advise would to only pull them out when you are really strugling to climb a hill. If it were me I would try and run 22psi in the tyres with the chains and around 18 psi in the tyres without the chains.  You will also likely find that at the top of Mt Skene the chains won't  to much as it is the building up of snow in front of the bottom the bullbar that usually halts forward momentum rather than traction itself. Hope this helps. Cheers Tony

Reply

Hi Roger. The tyres with the chains on need to firm so the chains maintain a tight firm fit. I have only used them a few times preceding to keep away. This is because they chew up the tracks pretty bad. My advise would to only pull them out when you are really strugling to climb a hill. If it were me I would try and run 22psi in the tyres with the chains and around 18 psi in the tyres without the chains.  You will also likely find that at the top of Mt Skene the chains won't  to much as it is the building up of snow in front of the bottom the bullbar that usually halts forward momentum rather than traction itself. Hope this helps. Cheers Tony

Reply

Given the snow depth at present and probably over the next few weeks it's unlikely you would need to fit chains above 1600m. If you do, standard pressure would most likely be fine unless you start driving out of trails.

Reply

Reply

Reply

Hi Roger,

I recall the guys who drove the Land Cruiser Troop Carriers at Mt Buller oversnow always said the key in snow is momentum, momentum & momentum. When I worked in the ski industry and had to put chains on (either in virgin territory, fresh undriven snow or well travelled snow with huge dugouts) - I thought the wider mud tyres and lower pressures would be the ideal (on the Patrol) - whereas I think the narrower tyres with higher pressures always had better traction. My Pathfinder and then Pajero with narrower and higher pressure tyres always had way more grip. And the full time on snow vehicles almost all had narrow tyres.

With snow condition - if its fresh snow without any base and its deep - its damn tough. Best get forward a small distance - roll back over your tracks - then add some more distance - repeating the trick. If you have a base under the snow - narrow tyres /higher tyre pressures will be better. If the snow has already had traffic on it - then thats way easier - but again keep those pressures up.

Tony's advice on tightness of chains is right. Especially of you have ladder chains. The better diamond pattern for some reason do work better with a looser fit.

Good luck!

Reply

Thanks Tony! I have the diamond pattern chains, I'm not certain for sure, but I heard the ladder chains weren't supposed to be used anymore because they didn't have any lateral grip (easy to slip sideways on them), thanks for the help. If I find some snow I'll post some pics 😉

Reply

A couple of other bits of advice Roger-

1- On tracks like Mt Skene, when pulling over for a while, try and only move to your left 1/2 a car width (no more).  Often people get stuck because they moved too far to the left and got their left wheels stuck in the gully and then are not able to get back out without assistance from another vehicle (we have all done it).

2- When ever you stop (even if just waiting for the next vehicle to move on) reverse back 2m over your (now compacted) tracks.  When taking off agian, this will allow you some momentum before your back onto the fresh snow (as the other Tony said- momentum, momentum, momentum)

3- If possible, following the exact tracks of the vehicle infront of you will usually make it easier for your vehicle, unless they have hit a tree or driven over a cliff 

4- Practice fitting your snow chains at home in a nice dry driveway.  Fitting them for the first time in shitty, muddy, cold snow is not much fun.

5- Enjoy the experience.  When you find yourself being the first on a track with fresh snow, it is a wonderful experience (no matter how old you are).

Cheers-  Tony (leDakar). 

Reply

Cheers mate, sounds good, having a practise session next day off to get more familiar with the chains, getting an Xrox bar with winch fitted on Monday. All I need is for the weather to co-operate! Thanks again, it's much appreciated 

Reply

Hello Roger, It all depends on conditions and where you intend to go.  For extreme snow depths, slight incline, no firm base, nothing will get you through. But the majority of time generally lowering tyre pressure to 20-22 psi and fitting snow chains prior to the snow line will be fine. (Its extremlly difficult if not impossible to fit chains when in the snow.) Constant momentum and NO wheel spin engaging all forms of traction aids. Spinning of wheels will only bog you down to the chassis. Having said all this, I run 35 inch Centipedes and never fit chains unless the tracks turn to ice.

Reply

Cheers Luca, will try those pressures and see how I go

Thanks mate

roger

Reply

Sorry Roger - I see you are now getting contradicting advice on your question on tyre pressure. Maybe it's best to try normal and then lower - and possibly higher.

That said - everyone has given some great tips on snow driving. For deep snow -,to give you best chance up an incline or flat ( and sometimes even slight declines) use the forward and back approach best described by the other Tony. I used to find reversing back say a car length - then going over your own track - and add another car length forward or slightly shorter was indeed the best way to ensure I didn't get stuck. This can work really well in deep snow (here in Oz we normally don't get the depths in Northern Hemisphere. Although many years ago I hit a drift that was over the roof on the way up Hotham. 

If you have ice - chains are perfect. But it's slow as you go - because if you cut through the ice - you might really easily get stuck. 

Just remember - try everything slowly relative to mud and sand - just keep things moving. Sometimes speed was crucial in heavily rutted tracks - after over 100 days driving with chains professionally - slow and steady almost always meant it was pretty easy to keep going - either forward or sometimes back.

and if it helps - thanks for asking the question. The suggestions from everyone have reminded me how fun it is and I can't wait to bring out the bloody heavy Rud matic Griefstegs.

oh - and in your kit - try leather gloves to fit (good for feel on the chains but resists snow sticking), a straw broom (really good to dust off fresh stuff and great for clearing under the car) and good torch to find that inside link ( unless you have my mega buck Griefstegs). And keep the a/c going to demise faster.

YOU WILL HAVE A BALL😀

Reply

Cheers Tony! Will remember to put the gloves in, I have a set of Autofit Diamond pattern chains that seem relatively easy to fit with a heavy duty wire cable that just has one connector for the inner side of the tyre. However will practise more before I go, I know it won't be as easy to fit them when I get up there! Thanks for your help, will take it quietly and carefully

Reply

Reply